FASHION RECAP: WHAT'S HOT, WHAT'S NOT, & WHAT'S NEXT
Debuts, New Beginnings and Making History
MICHAEL RIDER'S DEBUT AS CREATIVE DIRECTOR AT CELINE FOR SPRING 2026
First of all... Did you know that Celine, the French fashion house we now associate with sleek tailoring and understated elegance, was founded in 1945 by Céline Vipiana, a made-to-measure shoe boutique for children? (Yes, I know! Crazy.) Over the decades, it has evolved into a symbol of modern luxury and clean, minimalist design. Celine has gained a reputation for exceptional craftsmanship, must-have accessories, and a lineup of visionary creative directors—from Phoebe Philo, whose minimalist genius designs created a cult-like following, to Hedi Slimane, whose signature edgy style added a new dimension to the brand.
Last week, a new chapter began as Michael Rider made his debut as Celine's new creative director with the Spring 2026 collection. Rider's return to the house feels more like a homecoming than a handoff. He began his career at Balenciaga under Nicolas Ghesquière in 2004. Four years later, he joined Celine under Philo's leadership as design director, helping to shape what many consider the brand's "golden years". After Philo's departure, Rider moved to Polo Ralph Lauren as creative director in 2018 and left the house this past May.
Despite mixed reviews, I personally found the collection to be solid. If you know me, you would agree that I can be one of the harshest critics when it comes to fashion—one of my friends in the industry even calls me "the Grinch." However, I believe in giving credit where it's due, and this debut was well executed. It felt like a departure from the often-overrated "Parisian style," shifting toward something dynamic and grounded: refined yet not old-fashioned. It had a youthful spirit without being overly serious, and I loved the hints of color.
Undoubtedly, 2025 has become the year of big debuts, and I'm anxiously awaiting Matthieu Blazy's debut at Chanel in October. However, after seeing the collection and reviewing critics' notes, one thought occurred to me: When did consistency become a problem in fashion? There are better issues for us to focus on in this industry.
If a designer isn’t shocking the world or reinventing the wheel every season, their work is often labeled as boring. However, not everyone can be a fashion genius like Galliano. We currently live in a time where creativity seems to be on the verge of extinction. A collection that is cohesive, well-constructed, and commercially viable should be considered more than enough. I believe that if we stop being so harsh on the designers who are delivering quality work, creativity will evolve over time. While I do not accept laziness or mediocrity, I will always strive for consistency.
Last, but not least. One of the most exciting parts of this collection is the return of the iconic Phantom bag. This cult favorite disappeared shortly after Philo's departure, but now it’s making a comeback, and I am so excited! It brings back memories of my college days when that bag was featured in every paparazzi and street style photo. It was like the "Birkin" for the youth back then. I can’t wait to see it back on the shelves— and yes, I definitely want one!
CHANEL “LAST COLLECTION”
On Tuesday, Chanel unveiled its Fall 2025 Couture collection, the latest offering from the brand's interim creative team, which previously collaborated with Karl Lagerfeld and Virginie Viard. While the craftsmanship remains impeccable, the collection's soul feels absent.
This collection marks the seventh created during this transitional phase, and the fatigue within the creative team is increasingly apparent. With each passing season, it becomes clearer that Chanel desperately needs a new vision. The repetition, lack of narrative, and uninspired silhouettes contribute to the feeling that the brand is simply treading water.
I love Chanel —I'm obsessed with it. It's a brand I've dreamed of buying pieces from since I was a child. However, I will say this: Matthieu Blazy needs to make a mind-blowing debut in October, as his career could be jeopardized if he stays on the conservative side. This brand is one that cannot rely solely on consistency.
Chanel has made many questionable decisions since Karl's death, and I'm afraid they won’t recover if he doesn’t deliver something outstanding.
THE ORIGINAL BIRKIN BAG SELLS FOR 10 MILLION AT AUCTION
The Birkin bag, despite its legendary status, has a relatively short history. It all began in 1984 on a flight from Paris to London when model, actress, and fashion icon Jane Birkin accidentally spilled the contents of her straw bag. Seated next to her was Jean-Louis Dumas, who was then the Executive Chairman of Hermès (1978–2006). Amid the chaos, Birkin expressed her frustration over the lack of a stylish yet functional leather bag that suited her needs as a young mother.
Moved by her comments, Dumas sketched a design for a new handbag right on an airplane "sick bag". Four years later, he presented Birkin with a prototype specifically tailored to her needs—a creation that would eventually become one of the most iconic accessories in the history of modern fashion.
Handcrafted with meticulous attention to detail and minimal branding, the Birkin bag showcases Hermès' signature leather craftsmanship.
Forty years later, the Birkin has evolved into more than just a fashion item; it has become a high-performing investment. According to the 2025 Knight Frank Luxury Investment Index (KFLII), luxury handbags—particularly rare and hard-to-find styles, like the Birkin were one of the few categories that saw growth in 2024, increasing by 2.8%, while most other sectors, including art and wine, experienced declines.
In fact, over the past five years, investment-grade handbags have appreciated by 34% in value, and over the last decade, they have seen an impressive 85% increase. Isn't this mind-blowing?! The classic black Togo leather Birkin now commands record-breaking prices on the resale market, proving it is not just a status symbol but also a solid financial asset.
On Thursday, Jane Birkin's original, well-worn Birkin bag was auctioned at Sotheby's for €8.6 million ($10 million), making it the most expensive handbag ever sold at auction.
What began as a personal request on an airplane has transformed into one of the most astute investments in fashion today.